Au Marche

There are few things I love more about France then the Market. Here in Toulon, we have two daily markets and both are amazing in their own way.

The big market, in downtown Toulon, is the biggest in Var, the "state" in which Toulon is located. It runs for several blocks, has every conceivable item from produce to clothing to jewelry to toys and then even more produce. The smell of all the produce mingling with the scent of olives and spices is exotic. The crowd of people pushing toward the tables is crazy, so many cultures melting together in what is a normal daily chore. The market is also a social event with groups of people gathered together, blocking traffic and chatting. It is quite nearly impossible to push a stroller through the crowd. I love it.

The small market is also pretty amazing. It is located in Mourillon, an area located a mere 10-15 minute walk from the big market. We fondly call this area the "village" for its small neighborhood feel. If you walk through every day for only a week, faces begin to look familiar. Visit the same stand at the market everyday for a week, and you become a regular. Everyday is different at this market. While the produce vendors remain the same day after day, the other vendors change. Some days shoes are popular, some days bedding and some days clothes. I still haven't figured out who is there when. However, every market day brings a visit to the olive vendor. Although, he sells not just olives, but tapenades (fig and black olive is a favorite), capers, pickled veggies and anchoide, a surprisingly delicious concoction of anchovies, garlic and olive oil which I can no longer have in the house as I spread it on bread and eat it for a snack. I shudder to think of the calorie count. The ducklings like the olive guy because they get a free bag of pitted green olives. Of course, free is relative, as we spend much money with the olive man.

However, what truly amazes me about the market, is that it is everyday. Well, every day except Monday. That means that every day from 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. the market is packed. And then miraculously, by 2 p.m., there is no trace that the market was ever there. Until the next morning, the space becomes a road, a parking lot, a walkway or a play area depending on location. The city workers literally swoop in with their trash trucks and their hoses and their street sweepers and clean it up leaving nary a trace. It is a pretty stunning transformation. Photos are below. And, I apologize for them as I am still figuring out how to post photos. The order is a little confusing....think clockwise. Until next time....eat, shop and be merry.